chawen

Ecclesiastical Porto and a Stroll in the Ribera

Bom Dia,

Happy Dia da Liberdade! I got some good sleep, but I was awake at midnight when the fireworks went off to celebrate the holiday honoring the over throw of the Salazar dictatorship and the reestablishment of democracy in Portugal. Congratulations to my Host Country! A lot of businesses were closed including La Mercado Bolhao. I saw some disappointed tourists waiting outside and was glad I went yesterday, so my apero was ready for me.

As promised I woke up stiff, but in this case the only way out is through. I have to keep walking.

I began my day with a trip to the ATM. Portugal as a member of the EU uses the Euro, and the exchange rate is hideous.

I wanted to visit the Cathedral. It sits on a hill in the heart of the city and is dedicated to the Assumption of Mary into Heaven and dates from the Twelfth Century. The building has a very solid and rather fortress like exterior. I have a fondness for the Romanesque possibly due to my Norman ancestry, so I appreciated the church. You have to pay to get in, and I got a combo ticket because I also wanted to visit the Bishops Palace.

The term for cathedral in Portugese is Se, and I'm going to guess it derives from the Latin word See meaning seat. For example the late Pope Francis occupied the Holy See, which refers to his being Bishop of Rome. Porto, Lisbon and other cities had bishops, too, so their cathedrals as opposed to ordinary churches are Se.

I'm glad I arrived when I did because when I exited there was a big old long line to get in. But I had a nice quiet, pretty uncrowded visit which began in the Gothic Cloisters. Then I visited the nave, which was pure Romanesque with a lot of Baroque decoration. It was quiet, and I enjoyed my walk around. Visitors can climb one of the towers. I no longer do this.

I walked across the courtyard to the Bishop's Palace. I correctly identified the style of the exterior as Baroque, and this impression was confirmed when I encountered a grand stairway up to the exhibits. It's not a lavish interior. I gathered that the Bishops of Porto enjoyed their authority but weren't interested in luxury. It's definitely worth a visit.

On the way down the hill, I felt obliged to visit the market stalls. I bought some cheese. I will share with you when I come to taste it.

Probably the most famous part of Porto is the riverside neighborhood of Ribera. I did not make it as far as the riverside--although I will this visit, but I did saunter down a pedestrianized street (and was glad to do so because often the traffic reminds me of Palermo) with many, many touristy shops. For example I came upon three gourmet chocolate stores. And there were many street musicians and other performers. One guy had a bunch of trained birds.

But I was tired then, so I climbed back up the hill to home. I need to work myself into fitness. My foot problem keep me from proper walking for weeks, but I'll build stamina. To help this process along. I had some conservas for dinner in the shape of sardines packed in olive oil with tomato sauce. It was delicious!

Adeus