Mercao de Bolhao

 

Mercado de Bolhao

 

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 Bom Dia,

The best aperitivo is tawny port and almonds.

I did a low key tourist day. I did get some sleep and I even took a nap after breakfast, so I'm feeling pretty decent except for that tiresome foot.

The plan was to get some groceries and do an easy tourist thing. Well, it turned out I could do both at once. I generally love European markets. There have been a couple that have been too noisy and intense for me, but I mostly love snooting around them. It's as good as a museum.

I found out that Mercado de Bolhao was just a few minutes walk from my place. And by the way, while knowing nothing about Porto when booking this place, I once again lucked into a great location. On the way to the market I found copious window licking opportunites and my very own street hosts a bakery and a shop with wine and conservas.

What are conservas, Pil?

Tinned fish is justly popular in the Iberian Peninsula and also among travelers fortunate enough to visit there. Seriously. This is a high quality and very tasty product--affordable and easy for me since the stuff is already cooked. It's a mistake to turn your nose up.

 

On to the mercado.  The place opened in 1837 in a beautiful multi story building from the Beaux Artes period. I went downstairs and was immediately enthralled. Yeah, it's kind of touristy (doesn't bother me, since I'm a tourist) but plenty of locals were shopping there, too.  It's big and pretty much anything your heart desires is to be found somewhere: flowers, fruit, vegetables, spices. Some stands were clearly aimed at tourists and offered souvenir type stuff. I strolled around in a happy haze.

Yeah, but did you buy anything, Pil?

You betcha! It would have been rude not to. I do not eat pork in the United states unless I can find some that is certified humane, so I save any pork consumption for Europe where pig farming is closely regulated, and traditional methods are respected. The Iberian Peninsula is famous for its hams. This goes back to La Reconquista Period when Christians needed to prove they weren't Jews or Muslims, hence the consumption of pork. But the pigs are special breeds that run free and feast on beech mast and other piggy treats. The woman I got my hunk o' ham from told me it was from the famous Piedra Negra or Black Foot pigs. I think we should have a bite. It smells divine.  It has a mild smokey flavor--very rich but not too fatty.

I didn't stop there. I cruised by an olive oil stand and was attracted by a bottle that was not too big for my visit. The charming proprietor offered me a taste. We discussed the flavor profile I wanted and I smelled and slurped. Good! I wanted to cough. She also handed me their business card. They import to California, but we have our own oil, and when I'm home I won't buy anything else, and what with the tariffs or at least the uncertainty about them, their U.S. business may suffer.

I also attended a bakery and got a couple of rolls. I can have one with breakfast tomorrow. And I bought a bottle of Vinho Verde--the white, slightly sparkling kind, which you can find--for now--in the United States and very tasty and refreshing it is, too.  The verde part doesn't literally mean green. It means young, and I have also tried the red and rose versions in Portugal. It pairs nicely with the ham, but it is really terrific with conservas. And I guess the salt cod or Bacalhau which is everywhere. I tried it. Didn't like it, but don't tell or I'll be kicked out of the country.

After that I strolled around my neighborhood. Porto is delightful!

I'm going to take care of my foot and have an early night.

Adeus.